The proof is in the pastry
Exploring the mouthwatering world of French confectionary
In a country where dessert is practically a national treasure, the role of pastry at a restaurant plays a starring role, elevating the everyday and offering a final, unforgettable flourish to any meal. At any true French bistrot, the pastry menu isn’t just a sweet after thought, it’s a statement of identity.
Go behind the scenes of Le Bistrot de JAN where Head Pastry Chef Ana Gabriela Maldonado whips up sugary dreams on a daily basis.
What made you decide to specialise in pastries?
Since I was a little girl I would sit next to my mom while she baked the cake for each one of our birthdays. When I was growing up it was always me who baked for my family and friends as a hobby, but the joy they experienced and shared with me while they ate is a feeling I’ve tried to emulate in my career. As far back as I can remember I’ve always loved desserts. Everything about it, the techniques involved, the balance for it not to be too sweet and the complexity behind the beauty of each dessert is so fascinating for me to discover and learn about.
What does a typical day at work look like for you?
My day starts with checking the prep from the night before, drinking some coffee and enjoying a croissant. Music in the kitchen is obligatory to have a good morning. Since I’m Head Pastry Chef of Le Bistrot de JAN and Restaurant JAN I have to keep an eye on both establishments, and during service I work between both.
What would people be surprised to learn about your role?
The fact that even if Le Bistrot de JAN and Restaurant JAN are connected physically, they are not the same in terms of the menu. The Bistrot’s pastry is very fun and spontaneous while Restaurant JAN has a meticulously thought out and prepared process. It’s a creative challenge as pastry chef that I’ve really been enjoying and I’m very grateful to be given this opportunity and responsibility.
Are there any unique techniques or tools you use that people might not know about?
At the moment we are roasting vanilla on a barbecue grill for an ice cream we have on the menu, and then drying the empty vanilla pods to then blend or infuse with sugar. We do it this way to ensure there is zero wastage.
What are the main pastry menu inspirations at the moment?
It’s currently summer in France, which means some lovely fruits are in season. We can make use of apricots, peach, strawberries, rhubarb, and soon figs. I try to use them for the dessert of the week at the Bistrot and think ahead for Restaurant JAN. As soon as the fruit is in season I can start testing recipes.
What makes Niçoise pastry unique compared to other regions in France?
I’ve been here for five years and in my experience Niçoise pastries are not as rich in butter as in the north of the country. We also have areas with large citrus and strawberry production nearby which makes it easier to create fresh and fruity types of pastry.
Are there traditional desserts from Nice that tourists might not know about?
I think the tourte de blettes is a very interesting tart. It mixes pine nuts, chard, apple and raisins, with some icing sugar sprinkled over the top.
How do you incorporate Mediterranean flavours into your creations?
Depending on what idea I already have in my mind, I normally work with citrus during winter, or I add Mediterranean influences to cut a bit the sweetness of the fruit, like mango. I also love pairing Mediterranean herbs with whatever fruit I’m using, it’s a fun way to add a little extra flavour.
Do you have a signature pastry or creation you’re especially proud of?
It’s obviously not my creation or a signature pastry but receiving compliments from South Africans about the Malva pudding at the Bistrot makes me smile every time.
How do you balance creativity with the traditions of French pâtisserie?
I play a lot with flavours. Sometimes I prefer to leave the french technique of the dessert exactly how it’s supposed to be, but then I try to add textures to it or plate it in a different way than the standard tradition.